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The Tasmanian Orchid Society leaflets are in place in the Conservatory and they are being taken steadily by visitors who become enthused by over the 100 Cymbidiums and other orchids on display. The Dendrobiums and later Coelogyne are still rallying. Fresh Masdevallia veitchiana have been positioned. There seems to be 12 months of the year that they flower in their pots. I know they are relatively common compared to the wonderful examples of yellows pinks and stripes that were at the Town Hall last weekend. Arpophyllum giganteum is the orchid that features in a bay this month.

I should mention at this time of year the benefits of being a Friend of the Gardens. The Neutrog company has an arrangement for FOG members with the various fertilizers they produce. Strike Back for Orchid fertilizer is $30 for 20kgs. Membership is, $30 for a single, $40 for a double and $55 for an affiliated group. Perhaps this is worthy of more discussion.

Have you ever wondered what happens to the growers of the Odontoglossum and Allied Genera when they have left our mortal world? The answer is they get their heads together and see what they can do to cause total turmoil for all those left behind who blissfully thought they were growing Odontoglossums, only to find that they are really growing Oncidiums.

And those who thought that they had finally mastered the Oncidiinae, are now growing Gomesa which has expanded to include most of the Brazilian Oncidium, Baptistonia, Binotia, Rodrigueziella and Rodrigueziopsis.

Gerald McGraith, John Woodward and Rex Johnson must be having a fine old time in co-hoots with Julian Shaw and the Advisory Sub-Committee on Orchid Hybrid Registration, now known as the AsCOHR. The Chairman, Mr. Johan Hermansis, at the 25^th May 2011 meeting, considered the announcement to be a "controversial orchid name change".

It is the loss of the name Odontoglossum, as it becomes a synonym of Oncidium, that has caused the greatest angst; with a sense of reluctance, this change was eventually accepted by AsCOHR

The Registrar of New Orchid Hybrids, Mr. Julian Shaw, says he is well aware of the annoyance, anguish, and plain confusion that these changes are creating for people who simply want to look up their plants in the Register or register hybrids. He has received emails that range from the sympathetic to the unprintable. (Mine was somewhere in between).

He would like to offer the following advice: please continue to use whichever names you personally like on your plants and on your applications for registration. The old names will continue to be entered in the Register as synonyms so that data can be retrieved. It is hoped that before the end of the year the online version of the Register will be searchable by the old generic names.

So the effect of all this is that there will be no such genera or hybrid of Odontoglossum, Cochlioda, Brassia, Cyrtochilum, Odontioda, Brassidium, Miltassia, Aliceara, Maclellanara, Beallara, Burrageara, Goodaleara, Lagerara, Wilsonara, Vuylstekeara, Colmanara, Odontocidium, Miltonidium, or Odontonia. There are other hybrids but these are the better known ones to us here in Tasmania. BUT, they are ALL Oncidiums now.

My thoughts go to those who have to judge our plants to ensure they are being considered under the correct classifications and to those who have to re-write all the show schedules to cater for not only the jumble in the Oncidiinae but also in the Maxillariinae and the Zygopetalinae. My mind is exploding.

There is one more thing that really upsets me. I have an awful lot of plants that need their labels to be re-written and a computer listing in need of an update to fix the nomenclature. Let alone all the photographs…… "I’m not happy Julian."

Well you know its spring time when all the Glossodia major are spiking and flowering. It’s a busy time for all the spring flowering orchids as they start to spike. The upcoming months should be busy ones for those of us looking down as we wander the bush searching for orchids.

Acianthus caudatus or Nemacianthus cudatus (Mayfly Orchid)

We found this orchid on the Tangara trail (a horse and bike riding track from Seven Mile beach to Opossum Bay), one of the only orchids we have found "off" the track, although it was on a disturbed area where a tree had fallen over. This orchid has a heart shaped green leaf close to the ground, the flower itself is small but the latter and dorsal sepals are really long. Flowering period: August to October.

Glossodia major (Wax Lip Orchid)

This orchid, although common is a stunning orchid. The fact that it is common makes it so easy to find, with a reasonably large flower and deep to light purple in colour that really stands out. Found at Clifton Beach Conservation area and all over the eastern and western shore, it would be worthwhile going out into your local bush and having a look for this one. Flowering Period: September to November.

Pterostylis nana or Linguella nana (Dwarf Greenhood)

A great little green hood, this being one of the first green hood I ever saw over a year ago. Found at Clifton Beach Conservation area in two small patches. Flowering Period: August to October.

That‘s about it for this month, so I will fill this spot with our one and only lithophytic orchid, Dockrillia striolata chrysantha, although not flowering this month if will be in flower next month. The size of the clumps and the amount of flowers is a great si te to see. To see this orchid take a weekend trip up the east coast to Bicheno as the orchid is found on the big boulder lookouts on the southeast side of town between the town and the Gulch. Whalers Lookout has an easy walk to a nice view and past plenty of Dockrillia striolata chrysantha. (Amanda in front in Picture) Flowering Period: Late September to October.

‘The Orchids of Tasmania.’

Masdevallia orchids are cool growers. They love a cool, moist environment with plenty of air movement to remind them of their origins in the high country of South America. They do not have pseudo bulbs like many epiphytic orchids, only fleshy leaves to hold water and nutrient. One should be careful therefore to maintain moisture at the roots and in the environment. It is still important not to over water, never keep the medium soaking wet. For the reasons above it is vitally important to keep the growing medium sweet. If it decays it will rot the fine root systems and the plant will collapse. For this reason we recommend repotting annually.

Potting mediums should be either good quality aged pine bark sieved and graded, Sphagnum Moss or more recently coco coir fibre. Our favourite method is to use 1/3 to 1/2 pot of bark then add the orchid Osmocote then top off with Sphagnum Moss. We find this allows good drainage while still maintaining the benefits of Sphagnum Moss that Masdevallias really like. The Osmocote maintains excellent nutrition for the plant between annual repotting.

In the past year good quality coco coir fibre has become available. We are currently potting many plants in this medium and feeding with Orchid Osmocote, which as usual we place in the bottom 1/3 ofthe pot. Results look promising with easy watering while the fibrous nature of the material assures plenty of air to reach the roots.

Masdevallias need to be well shaded in Summer to keep the plants cool and the environment humid. If possible try to keep the temp. under 30C, a few hours warmer won't matter as long as you have humidity. Constant dry heat will cause the plant to drop its leaves and collapse. In Winter try to give bright airy conditions, humidity is usually high any way. Some overhead cover is essential in Winter or they may become too wet. Minimum temperature should be 5C for most, though be aware there are some warmer growers. Masdevallias will sometimes tolerate a light frost but try to avoid this if at all possible.

Cool moist airy conditions free from frost. A void hot and dry. Pot annually, do not divide too small. Feed Osmocote or Manutec Orchid Food. Keep free from pests especially Aphids. Do not over water.Masdevallias may be grown indoors if you have light but not direct sun on a window sill or similar. As humidity is low indoors leaves will need misting daily and plants grown on wet gravel or plunged in Sphagnum Moss. You may be surprised just how well they grow indoors. If you live in a climate with long hot summers they may well prefer it indoors at least for the Summer.

Now is the time of the year when collections can be cleaned up and given a spring clean.

As flowers die off, remove old racemes, trim broken and damaged leaves, remove dead leaves, dried and withered canes and keikis.

The media you use for repotting / potting on may be pure radiata pine bark to which you can add quartz gravel, chopped up bracken fern, manfern fronds and leaf litter.

Potting on. Remove plant from pot and gently tease roots out without removing potting media. Place into a larger pot and pack new mix around the root ball, taking care not to break any roots.

Repotting. Remove all old mix from around the roots, hose off if necessary, so that you can see what you have and a clear view of root conditions. Place in a pot, allowing space for two to three years growth, ensure mix gets among roots and is the plant is held firmly in the pot by the new mix.

Plants can be split and old canes cut away before repotting. Take care not to damage or break new growths.

Keikis can be grown on to create new plants. Water plants thoroughly and fertilise regularly during the growing season

Well what a season we have just experienced, it has been one of the wettest, coldest, and longest I can remember. Consequently my stock of Pleione have suffered, those that have flowered show signs of prolonged cold and moist conditions. In their natural habitat this genus experience a cold but dry period of dormancy, some of them even covered with snow.

Conditions here at Clifton are far from ideal, but I thought I was doing fairly well until I saw what other members had entered in the show and I have to say I am very pleased for them especially Bev.

Culturally, as the flowers begin to fade and the leaves reach about lOcm watering can increase to almost daily, the idea is to try to emulate the monsoonal rains that occur in their natural habitat where it rains heavily for 6 to 8 weeks. The main requirement is the mix must be very free draining but able to retain moisture, which is a neat trick. Fertilising can also begin using a high nitrogen liquid feed at about a quarter of a teaspoon to a nine litre bucket of water and applied every 8 to 10 days.

Remember Pleiones are shade loving, but still require good light therefore will do well in a shade house or out side under cover so that can control watering.

Leaf tip die back is a problem which Pleione seem to be particularly prone to and is due to a lack of calcium and is manifested during those very hot days we experience in summer. This may be minimised by applications of granular dolomite lime sprinkled over the surface of the mix and needs to be done a few days prior to forecast hot days and well watered in.

Watch out for snails and slugs, as they have like to have a nibble at the newly forming bulbs, especially the garlic snails. Treat with the appropriate baits like Baysol @ but is better if ground into a powder then sprinkled on.

Editor Mr M White 72 Esplanade Margate 7054 Ph. 6267 1589

Greenhood can be accessed on the internet at http://www.tos.org.au/ where there are photos of many of the orchids tabled at meetings.