The Tasmanian Orchid Society Inc. disclaims all liability against any loss or damage, which may be attributed to the use of any article or material mentioned in Greenhood. Contributions express the views and opinions of the contributor and are not necessarily those of the Tasmanian Orchid Society.

The deadline for all articles is the Friday, ten days prior to the monthly meeting. No Exceptions.

The mixing and bagging of our potting media went very well, nice weather, good morning tea and lunch, thanks Bev and Jan for the soups. The result, 260 large and 50 small bags. The society should clear around $2500 to help in running costs. Thanks to Mike White for the use of his driveway and storage.

The gathering at Ross was again well attended with all societies represented. A large number of plants were bought and sold, the new caterers, a local café, provided enjoyable food, no one starved. Champion orchid of the show was Masd. King of Kings ‘Black Caviar’ owned by Mike Kanarev. This plant also received an Award of Merit with 81.3 points from the AOC judging panel, congratulations Mike. A plant owned by Peter and Helen Jackson, Masd. macrura x Margarita ‘Blush Edition’ was awarded a Highly Commended Certificate with 76.2 points, congratulations Peter and Helen. Thanks to all those who donated prizes for the raffle which raised over $300 for the Australian Orchid Foundation. Thanks to the speakers Barry Wilson-Disa; Bev Woodward- Odontoglossums; Chris Nicholas- miniature Cattleyas and Graeme Chequer who gave us an update on importing of orchids into Tasmania. Again Graeme and Gaye Chequer tested the audience with their quiz, thinking caps were necessary. All in all it was en enjoyable day.

This month is our Autumn Show (refer to the April newsletter for instructions) and auction, don’t forget to make a donation and a purchase.

John Whitney will be talking to us about Sarcochilus at the June meeting, there will be plants and flasks available for purchase.

The weather is cooling so look after your plants and keep an eye out for spikes that are now appearing. Enjoy your orchids 

Contributors are required for Greenhood. You don’t have to contribute every month, one off articles are welcome. If you are interested in a particular group of orchids why not write about them either on a regular basis or casually. Groups for which contributions would be welcome include Masdevallias, Odontoglossum alliance, Sarcochilus and terrestrial orchids to name some. Rob Connor is no longer able to contribute to the Cymbidium column due to ill health and the Cymbidium column is currently be recycled so a fresh contributor would be welcome.

The newsletter is being upgraded on a trial basis, so colour photos can now be included with any articles. If an article refers to any orchid recently tabled at a meeting then I almost certainly have a photo of it on file and can include it. Other photos are welcome.

The preferred methods of sending articles in are by E-mail to mgwhite@aanet.com.au or else typewritten and posted to :-

Michael White 72 Esplanade Margate Tasmania 7054

Congratulations – The annual ‘Most Improved Grower’ award for the past year went to Jim and Bron Smith.

Jim has had many ups and downs with his orchid collection over the years, not his own fault I should add, and now is surely catching up. His plants and the variety he is growing show what excellent culture and attention can do for a collection.

A well deserved honour. Congratulations Jim and Bron.

Ross Get-Together – All reports were ‘one of the best we’ve held’ and the orchid display was really colourful. The only disappointment was the overcast and rainy day plus the new light globes in the hall and on the stage; they didn’t do anything to enhance the beautiful colours of the blooms – but there is always next year.

The judges’ choice winner – Masdevallia King of Kings ‘Black Caviar’ was grown by Mike Kanarev of Launceston Orchid Society.

Second place was taken by Dendrobium Autumn owned by Jim and Bron Smith of Tasmanian Orchid Society.

Best cultured plant was Masdevallia leontoglossa displayed by Dayle and Kay King of Burnie Orchid Society.

Popular vote went to Phragmapedium candidum exhibited by Tina Street and John Broad of Launceston Orchid Society.

Mike’s beautiful ‘Black Caviar’ was also granted an Award of Merit TOS/AOC by the judges present.

Autumn Show – No need to remind you that ‘Autumn Show Time’ has arrived. We hope to see a super display again this year.

Make sure your plants have nice clean leaves – no creepy crawlies. Endeavour to arrange or neatly stake your spikes so they can easily be seen by the judges.

Plants must be tabled in their various sections by 7.30 p.m. as the Society has a very full night – an auction is scheduled for after the supper break.

Any queries you may have beforehand please give me a call on 6228 4478.

The April meeting was a delight with 89 plants being tabled – see if we can beat it.

Reserve Champion -Any Orchid- $15.00

Best Cultured Plant :- $10.00

All Class Trophies 1^st. $5.00 2^nd. & 3^rd. Prize Cards.

Class 1. Cymbidium Hybrid over 90mm.

Class 2. Cymbidium Hybrid 90mm and under

Class 3 Cattleya and Allied Sp./Hyb.

Class 4 Oncidium Sp./Hybrid

Class 5 Odontoglossum and Allied Sp./Hybrid (as per orchid meeting quidelines)

Class 6 Masdevallia or Dracula Species

Class 7 Masdevallia or Dracula Hybrid

Class 8 Dendrobium Sp./Hybrid Other than Australian Native.

Class 9 Any Other Orchid Species. (Not listed elsewhere.)

Class 10 Any Other Orchid Hybrid. (Not listed elsewhere.)

Class 11 Australian Native Dendrobium Sp./Hybrid

Class 12 Sarcochilus Sp./Hybrid.

Class 13 Australian Native Tuberous Sp./Hybrid.

Class 14 Other Australian Natives Sp./Hybrid

Class 15 Foliage or Fern.

Class 16 Flowering Plant

Class 1 Floral Art "Posies for my Mum"

Class 2 Floral Art "Dainty and demure"

Class 3 Floral Art "I Tried !!" Men Only

Plants will be displayed in FRONT ROOM in their designated classes and should be tabled by 7.30pm. If you have any queries, please consult Phyl., Chris. or David Atkins

All flowering orchids are eligible provided you have owned and grown them for the past six months. Results of this show are not included in the end of year points tally.

Please keep our judges on their toes – and remember the old saying "You have to be in it to win it!"

The morning appeared to be misty and possibly damp, but our time in the Southern Forest collecting the dead fern fronds was just delightful. It was great to see several new members had come for the outing. I’m sure they enjoyed the occasion and certainly helped with the gathering. We moved a little away from our usual spot and found lots of large fronds that were so easy to collect and hence we had collected and mulched all we needed well before lunch time. The area I found was open once you had ventured off the track a few metres, but littered with large moss covered fallen logs and fern-hosting branches on the tall trees; to me fairyland. We found a delightful ring of red fungi to add to the magic feeling of the place.

(I returned during the Easter break with my 3 grandchildren and with fairy cakes and biscuits. They had a lovely time finding their ‘fairy-house’ and climbing amongst the fallen logs; we found dinner plate sized, bright red fungi with white spots ...incredible)

What is a potting mix supposed to do? The most important thing is to have good physical properties. These are:

a. Hold the plant in place.

b. Aeration. Lets plenty of air in for the roots, which must have oxygen for good growth.

c. Water holding capacity. Holds some of the water that is added.

d. Drainage. Excess water runs out of the bottom quickly.

e. Wettability. Takes in water readily and does not repel it.

f. Particle stability. Does not break down in a short period of time, but maintains its integrity for a year.

g. Cope with overwatering. If all of the above are in place, the mix should cope with some overwatering.

How does our society’s potting mix stack up against these points? I think very well and at ten dollars per large bag it represents excellent value. The only suggestion that I would make is to add some inert material that will not break down at all, such as gravel, charcoal or expanded clay balls. Do not add potting sand as it is too fine and remember that if you add gravel the bench must be able to take the weight.

Chemical properties are another matter. The mix contains pine bark chips, allocasuarina (she oak) needles and seed cones, and mulched dead fern fronds. When a plant dies the cells lose their contents rapidly and what remains is fairly resistant to breakdown, which is important for particle stability mentioned above. Our mix is fine for pH. The mix is neutral or close to it and neither acidic or alkaline. There are certainly no salt problems as the ingredients have been subjected to the weather and there are practically no soluble salts or reserves present. The pine bark chips have been aged and there will be no toxins in them. There will also be very few nutrients in it, which is good.

If we start with an inert mix and then add appropriate fertilisers at a dilute rate, we know what is in there. Liquid fertilising takes time, but is by far the best. We know what is in the fertiliser, because it is on the packet and the instructions for mixing are given. Orchid growers always apply at half the recommended rate or less. There are problems with so-called complete fertilisers as they are generally not really complete. Firstly, most do not contain magnesium or calcium, because they precipitate out of a fertiliser soup. This can be remedied with a small amount of dolomite lime that contains both. Fertiliser manufacturers assume that dolomite is added to commercial potting mixes and that there is enough in the soil. The assumption is not correct for our orchid mixture. Secondly, there is frequently insufficient iron, because it is the most expensive ingredient. A couple of applications of iron chelates in the summer should fix this, but again at a weaker strength than indicated on the packet. It must be done in the warmer months as plants cannot take up iron in cooler weather.

Use a brew that is labelled complete, but high in nitrogen during the growing season and change to a complete mix that is high in potassium when flower spikes should be setting. The best is the fertiliser supplied by hydroponic shops as it is really complete, because hydroponics means growing in an inert medium and supplying all of the nutrients in the water added. It is extremely expensive, but why purchase wonderful orchids and then feed them cheap rubbish? The reason that it is expensive is because all of the ingredients have to be pure nitrates or chelates that will not precipitate out magnesium and calcium and other trace elements. Most come as bottle A that contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nitrates and bottle B that contains chelated nitrates of trace elements. When mixed as stated, the result is stable. I am not a fan of organic fertilisers for orchids, because they are a pig in a poke. We do not know exactly what is in them and they are typically very low in potassium. Chicken manure based fertilisers may make the mix alkaline if ammonia or similar chemicals are present.

Excellent potting mixes have a healthy supply of good bacteria and fungi and regular fertilising will help here. So we are left with fertilising for growth and stimulating good microbes, but the microbes will also aid in the breakdown of the mix, that is reduce particle stability. Serious growers would be looking at repotting each year.

How does our brew stack up? It has excellent physical properties and provides a fine virtually inert material that will not muck up our added fertiliser. It is good stuff and outstanding value for money.

Top flowers come on good plants which have good roots in good potting mix that is appropriately fed and watered.

A rare orchid in Western Australia that spends its entire life underground is providing crucial insights into exactly which genes are essential for plant survival.

The critically endangered Rhizanthella gardneri, a native Australian orchid that lives its entire lifecycle underground, was found to be missing 70% of its chloroplast genes - genes typically associated with the conversion of sunlight into energy - which are essential to regular, above-ground plants.

The findings shed light on the vital non-photosynthetic function of chloroplasts, and could explain gene loss in other parasites, such as the Plasmodium parasite that causes malaria. "It’s the smallest chloroplast genome known in land plants and the genes that remain aren’t random," said lead author Etienne Delannoy from the University of Western Australia.

Although chloroplasts are most well-known for their role in photosynthesis, they also have poorly understood functions critical to plant life. Scientists suggest that chloroplasts are also linked to the synthesis of hormones, vitamins and fatty acids - but this has been difficult to study since photosynthesis itself masks the process in normal plants.

However, recent genetic sequencing has revealed that the Rhizanthella retains modified chloroplasts, and possesses a significantly reduced gene set compared to normal plants.

The top layer of leaf litter was removed around two Rhizanthella gardneri blooms. The bracts - a leaflike structure under the flower - of this rare, earth-dwelling plant spring open when the dirt is removed.

Credit: Mark Brundrett, University of Western Australia

While a typical land plant contains around 110 genes in its chloroplast genome, Rhizanthella was found to contain only 37, a fraction of the normal amount. The researchers believe these genes are responsible for manufacturing two complex protein structures that can not be made anywhere else in the plant cell, but which are vital for plant survival.

Not only is the Rhizanthella rare, (there's an estimated 50 individuals left in the wild), but it’s also notoriously difficult to find. The orchid depends on parasitising nutrients from a fungus associated with roots of broom bush (Melaleuca uncinata) - a woody shrub found in outback Western Australia. Since the flower remains concealed below the litter layer, it is located by the presence of the bush.

"We have to crawl around on our hands and knees and scrape the litter back for what could be hours, but it’s like finding a gold nugget," said conservation biologist Mark Brundrett from the University of Western Australia, co-author of the study in the journal Molecular Biology and Evolution.

The total DNA from Rhizanthella gardneri was extracted using a single flower head, and allowed the complete chloroplast genome to be sequenced.

"Even though the chloroplasts aren’t photosynthesising anymore, whatever they're doing is important enough that the plant is keeping many copies per cell," said co-author and plant molecular biologist Ian Small from the University of Western Australia.

A shared evolutionary strategy

The findings also reveal crucial information about how other parasites, including mammalian pathogens, end up with limited genomes, which may potentially be useful in the treatment of certain diseases.

"Although the modern day malaria parasite Plasmodium falciparum doesn’t photosynthesise anymore, it does still have plastids (structures that can store pigments used in photosynthesis), and that genome is basically a stripped down version of what it had in the past," said Small.

"It shows similarities with the Rhizanthella genome, and while there obviously isn’t total convergence, the evolutionary strategy is extremely similar."

According to Tim Entwisle, executive director of the Botanic Gardens Trust in Sydney, "It shows why we should be concerned about the loss of any species; not only because they are irreplaceable products of evolution, and not just because we don’t know what part most of them play in maintaining a healthy and robust ecosystem, but because who knows what scientific truths they might reveal?"

Brundrett says the research was "serendipitous", because the DNA sequencing also provided data for conservationists trying to identify whether populations of the orchid were genetically similar or different.

"We did two very different experiments with the same orchid sample. Now we’re interested in looking at the orchid’s closest relatives and its genetic diversity. It’ll allow us insight into whether we need to protect each population separately, or whether we can focus on the variants easiest to protect," he said.

Finding a way to propagate the rare plant may also prove important, not only to ensure the survival of the species, but also because of the potential market.

"I think if it can be propagated and distributed, there’d be no end of collectors around the world who’d just love one of these. If orchid growers could one day germinate and grow the plant then I think all of a sudden it would become a lot less rare, and that’d be wonderful," said Small.

For orchids growing in a bark based compost, watering can be carried out once every one to two weeks according to the weather, during May through June. Only water on sunny days so that the foliage dries off before nightfall. Never let them dry out completely.

For orchids growing in horse manure I find they need to be watered every day of the year in order to allow oxygen to the roots,

Fertilize once every two weeks [flowering sized plants only] with low nitrogen or ‘blossom booster’ fertiliser until the end of May . Stop this program once June arrives with the cold, as Orchids cannot accept fertiliser under these conditions.

Keep an eye out for spikes and start training them ready for the spring show to give best results, use bamboo stakes taking care to use a block of cork or styrene placed on the top for protection of eyes and other facial features as you peer into the pot for more spikes

Some Orchids have naturally arching spikes and do not like to be staked any higher than the lowest flower. Keep those plants with spikes out of the strong wind and rain to protect them from being blown over.

As the wet winter arrives keep an eye out for slugs and snails, they love a nice juicy bud to chew on while you sleep, a sprinkling of snail bait can help but this is very poisonous to your pets and children. It is a good idea to have your plants 10—20 cms. off the ground to stop the likes of slaters crawling in through the holes in the bottom of the pot and eating the roots.

Continue to keep your plants clean and remove any dried husks from back bulbs and those leaves that have gone brown, which is quite natural at this time of the year.

Well, the Ross Fun Day has come and gone for another year.  Always a super day with people from our four State societies mingling and catching up with each other once again.

Our new caterers have started well and I’m pleased to hear we have them booked for next year.  Just think, cucumber sandwiches made from very fresh white or wholemeal bread.

Haven’t had them since I was a kid.  And for the purists, sorry the crusts weren’t trimmed.  That’s not to mention the two soups and various other sandwiches plus dessert, of course.

For those of you who couldn’t make it, pencil the first Sunday in May 2012 in your diary and join us for a beaut day.

Culturally it’s still a strange year.  That burst of full sunshine over the past week or so has delayed the advent of winter (it’s only a month away) and enabled the plants to continue their growth.

Watch those mounted plants, they’re still drying out quite rapidly and require dunking every three days or so, otherwise just follow last month’s notes and look forward to a very short winter, I hope.

Don’t forget next meeting is our autumn show so bring in all those plants and show just what you can do.

The cooler/cold nights have arrived and I have reduced watering to an as required basis, once a week being the norm for plants in plastic pots. Mounted plants are misted every couple of day to stop dehydration as a few hours of sunlight on a covered area can dry plants out too much.

  Watering should be carried out in the mornings to allow plants to drain and not have water sitting in the leaf axil and around the flower spikes which can become mildewed.

Flower spikes are appearing on many plants a cold snap will slow their growth for a while.

  Aphids are about in small numbers and washing them off before they become established- will reduce the need to spray with chemicals. I have tried not to use chemical sprays during the last year and am finding that frogs and skinks are beginning to thrive in the environment of the growing area. Hopefully they will eat most of the insect population.

Extra care and attention now to watering and frost damage limitation and prevention, plus some luck, will reward you with a great show of flowers in the spring. Jim Smith

When it comes to hybridising, a species that looks good as a plant, has fine flowers and is easy to grow, is an appropriate starting point. Sarcochilus hartmannii is just this. It is one of the few terrestrial species. That makes it fine for growing in pots and it tends to pass on this characteristic to its offspring. The plant has healthy, bright deep green, strong growth and the flowers are the closest in a species to what the judges look for in a showbench flower. The one shown in the photo was grown by R. and L. Clarke and won the best Sarcochilus hartmannii in the Devonport Sarcochilus Show last November. It is a fine shaped flower and very well-grown. Take care with hybrids based on this species as there is often a pun on the word heart coming from the parent species eg. ‘Snowhart’ is correct as is ‘Heartlight’ and both have S. hartmanni as a parent. You can check by going to www.rhs.org/Plants click Plant Science, click RHS Horticultural Database and click the International Orchid Register.

Tinonee Orchid Nursery has a feature in the current edition of Australian Orchid Review in which it is stated: "The popularity of Australian Native Orchids has grown dramatically in recent years. New cultivars have provided growers with a broader range of colours and styles that are easy to grow and flower. ... Sarcochilus are usually found in heavier shade areas (than dendrobiums), about 90% shade cloth and somewhat higher humidity than dendrobiums is beneficial. ... Sarcs grow all year, but experience most growth in this area (Central North Coast of NSW) during Autumn/Winter." In Tasmania we experience most growth in late summer to late autumn, but the point that sarcochilus grow all year is important. This means light fertilising during winter and increasing again in spring. Take care not to overwater and end up with a gluggy potting mix. With reference to the point about shade cloth, remember that we are further from the equator, the brightness of sunlight is less and 70% shadecloth during the summer in Tasmania would be ideal. Bearing in mind that sarcochilus are all CAM-photosynthesisers, high humidity at night is the key.

It is possible to have a sarcochilus plant in flower throughout the year, however now is the time that flower spikes really start to show, but the flowers will be slow to develop. Some will be ready for our orchid show in September, but the major flush will be in November.

In summary, sarcochilus do not have a rest period, so just cut back, rather than cut out the watering and fertilising in winter. Also they will take quite low temperatures. They will not be happy with a frost, but down to 4⁰C will not harm them. Many will take it even lower. They are mostly natives of the Great Dividing Range and its foothills and the night temperatures can get quite low in their native habitat. What we lack in an unheated glasshouse is the daytime temperature to get good growth in winter, but Tasmania is still the nicest place to live!

Now that this genus, in general, has reached dormancy, it is time to prepare for repotting. There are a few exceptions however for most of Pleione formosana and its hybrids still have a few weeks to go as most have still quite green leaves.

It is not necessary to repot every year, it depends on the condition of the mix. Has it started to break down? I feel by modifying the mix each year and observing the results that this should help to improve the flowering. Pleione will do quite well in any mix as long as it will drain freely, but at the same time, retain moisture.

Routine cleaning up of each pan is all that it is required for now. I have been dumping the top of each pan, bulbils and all into a container, removing all the old shriveled bulbs and then covering the pans with powdered cow manure. The top portion is replaced again with the bulbils. (Bulbils are the small offshoots that the main bulb produces as well as one and sometimes two new bulbs.)

The idea of this is, I feel, an attempt to control rust which pleiones seem to be prone to. Rust feeds on the nitrogen in the mix, and when the nitrogen is exhausted, it attacks the bulbs. The pans are then replaced on the bench and given a light misting.

Also from now until late winter – early spring the bulbs should be kept cool to cold and the mix just moist. This will be beneficial as most of the species are subjected to temperatures near 0^oC during dormancy. Some can even be covered in snow.

Besides a genus Aa there is also a registered cymbidium hybrid A.a. registered in 1934? Check

Editor Mr M White 72 Esplanade Margate 7054 Ph. 6267 1589