Feature :- John Whitney to talk on Sarcochilus

    Floral Art :- "Winter Time"

July 4^th. Committee meeting 8pm at Jan Dicker 166 Carella St. Howrah

July 18^th. Regular monthly meeting at Legacy Hall Macquarie St

    Feature :- Vic Dawes will talk about Pleiones

    Floral Art :- "Arrangement including dry materials"

Aug. 1^st. Committee meeting 8pm at Marg. Thiessen 3 Tanina Mews Kingston

August 15^th. Regular monthly meeting at Legacy Hall Macquarie St

    Feature :- Bev. Woodward will talk on Odontoglossums and allied genera

    Floral Art :- "Spring Fever"

Sept. 5^th. Committee meeting 8pm at Chequers 51 Wellwood St. Lenah Valley

Sept. 19^th. Regular monthly meeting at Legacy Hall Macquarie St

    Feature :- Preparing for the Spring Show

Floral Art :- "One Colour Arrangement"

29^th. Sept. – 2^nd. October Tasmanian Orchid Society Spring Show

Oct. 3^rd. Committee meeting 8pm at Jim Smith 11 Warren Crt. Howrah

Oct. 7^th. – 9^th. Burnie Orchid Society Conference and Spring Show

Oct. 17^th. Regular monthly meeting at Legacy Hall Macquarie St

    Feature :-

    Floral Art :- "Orchids in the Kitchen"

The Tasmanian Orchid Society Inc. disclaims all liability against any loss or damage, which may be attributed to the use of any article or material mentioned in Greenhood. Contributions express the views and opinions of the contributor and are not necessarily those of the Tasmanian Orchid Society.

The deadline for all articles is the Friday, ten days prior to the monthly meeting. No Exceptions.

Winter arrived with a whoosh very quickly reminding me to protect my plants and make sure there was no inappropriate watering that may cause leave to drop and spikes/racemes to damp off.

Congratulations to all the prize winners at our Autumn Show, the judges had a tough time making decisions, the way it should be. The Grand champion orchid Sophronitis coccinea ‘Dragon Fire’ grown by Phyl. Nicholas and Reserve champion Encyclia vitellina grown by Peter Willson were worthy selections, congratulations to you both.

Thanks to all those who donated items for the auction, also the auctioneer Trevor Dicker and his assistant Jan. The result a $586 boost to the society’s bank balance. Well done by the buyers.

New member Daryl Smith from the north west coast tabled a beautiful Sarcochilus Lara ‘Jackpot’which was judged and granted an Award of Distinction for colour, congratulations Daryl. I want to see it next year for a higher award.. ( If you have sarcochilus with Sarc.dilatatus and Sarc.hirticalcar in their background you can generally expect to see something as spectacular.

John Whitney from LOS is our guest speaker for June and is an expert in breeding and growing sarcochilus. He will have plants and flasks for sale, in addition to showing us some photos of his flowers he will also be dividing and repotting a couple of large plants. Here is a chance to learn more.

Following Wayne Dawes excellent demonstration and advice on repotting Disa I have been repotting mine and they are certainly kicked on, look very healthy and growing. I did lose a couple of tubers, not being careful enough.

I have been losing a few flowers lately, no indication of the usual suspects, snails, slugs, caterpillars. The culprit, a rat, a couple of Talon packets appear to have solved the problem.

The source of our spring flowers are now appearing and need to be nursed along, training and protection against insects and cold wet conditions.

Burnie Orchid Society are hosting a conference and show from 7 – 9 October. They are making provision for card table displays to encourage us to take plants up and enter a display. Something to think about, in the meantime register for the conference and dinner and arranging accommodation would be a good idea. These events are opportunities to meet old friends, make new friends and increase your knowledge of orchids.

Enjoy your orchids Jim Smith

Two weeks ago we sadly lost another member. Malcolm, due to ill health, was not able to attend meetings on a regular basis but when he could, would greet everyone with a smile.

Apart from being an extremely knowledgeable philatelist he considered our meetings the next best activity.

Always a real gentleman, he will be missed by all who knew him.

Sincerest sympathy is extended to Malcolm’s family from all his Tasmanian Orchid Society friends.

Contributors are required for Greenhood. You don’t have to contribute every month, one off articles are welcome. If you are interested in a particular group of orchids why not write about them either on a regular basis or casually. Groups for which contributions would be welcome include Masdevallias, Odontoglossum alliance and terrestrial orchids to name some. Rob Connor is no longer able to contribute to the Cymbidium column due to ill health and the Cymbidium column is currently be recycled so a fresh contributor would be welcome.

The preferred methods of sending articles in are by E-mail to mgwhite@aanet.com.au or else typewritten and posted to :-

Michael White 72 Esplanade Margate Tasmania 7054

Whilst some exhibitors mentioned it was an in-between flowering for them there were still many new and colourful plants exhibited at our Autumn Show.

I was delighted with my special Sophronitis coccinea ‘Dragon Fire’ taking out Grand Champion – our crazy weather really worked wonders for it.

Reserve Champion went to one of the best grown Encyclia vitellinas I have seen tabled at our meetings and it belonged to Peter Willson of Cambridge.  Peter has not been a member for very long and should be very proud of his achievement.

Congratulations to all winners and exhibitors for the effort they had put into making the show another colourful success

Floral Art classes were also a credit to exhibitors – they were not only very colourful but very inventive.  Shirley Jackson took out top honours.

Now for the downside – where were those MEN ONLY entries?  Just one exhibitor – well done Chunky – keep them coming as the Spring Show is only just around the corner!

We do welcome entries at monthly meetings – the section is open to all members willing to ‘have a go’.  We are not professional Floral Artistes but do like to see the colour and imaginative creations which brightens up our monthly meetings.

Now is the time to be thinking of the Spring Show and look to training your plants for exhibition.  If you would like any tips on this, catch up with Chris [Culture Corner] at the meeting – he can also give you some good tips on what to do with recalcitrant cymbidium spikes.

Tasmanian Orchid Society Awards:  If you have an orchid you would like our Judges to consider for a TOS Award please mention it to either David Atkins or myself for further details.

The RTBG conservatory is now starting to fill up with Laelia gouldiana and Paphiopedilums,. Zygopetalums, various Cymbidiums and Cattleya. There are few the same and they have the name C Portia, a pretty light lilac coloured flower. I am hoping that this is right. It would be good to name them correctly when they do come into flower so that records are accurate. If there is a definite website that could help with this eternal search I would love to know about it. Alternatively if members visit and know names please don’t hesitate to tell me what the correct name is. Quite often I see a plant featured at the monthly meeting and get the proper name from there.

For the first time ever we have enough material featuring the orchids to keep the Conservatory open throughout the winter. We normally bring back every pot. This year however we will clean a bay at a time. The Encyclia excavata are still flowering with a good show so they won’t be removed just yet. We are slowly building up our collection of begonia and bromeliads species as accompanying plants for the orchids. They seem to go well with each other, looking more like the Florida everglades or a jungle rather than just potted colour. Building up the interesting foliage plants like the ginger pots that I bidded for at the auction last month is now happening as well.

Take care in this weather

Please be advised of recent Orchid registrations made by Troweena Orchids so far this year. Could you please advise your Members as I know many of them will have at least one seedling hiding in their collection which needs to have an addition to details on their label or even a brand-spanking new one.

Troweena Orchids, Australia, Registrations, 10th January 2011

(Our Ref: P. 20744)

Supplied by the Royal Horticultural Society as International Cultivar Registration Authority for Orchid Hybrids

Memoria Iggy Plunkett Wils. Arosa x Onc. leucochilum

Troweena (B.L.Woodward) (Troweena's ref. # TR 721)

Shawn Pearce Oda. Tasca x Odcdm. Tiger Hambühren

Troweena TR 711

Daniel Pearce Wils. Fokawi x Oda. Nichirei Sunrise

Troweena (B.L.Woodward) TR 743

Memoria Rex Johnson Wils. [Vuyl.] Atunga Terrace x Oda. Diggers Rest

Troweena (B.L.Woodward) TR 730

Granny Smith Lmc. [Lyc.] Starfire x Lyc. cochleata

Troweena (B.L.Woodward) (Troweena's ref.# TR 828)

Pink Panther Oda. Frontispiece x Oda. Harrods Forever

Troweena (B.L.Woodward) TR 737

Elizabeth Jane Woodward Odm. Yellow Harry x Odcdm. Willamette Valley

Troweena (B.L.Woodward) TR 733

Why do orchids have flowers? Through time orchids have evolved flowers that will attract pollinators to bring about sexual reproduction. This form of reproduction allows superior combinations of genes to emerge that will enable orchids to better adapt to their surroundings. Sexual reproduction permits quite rapid changes to occur in a population in response to changes in the environment and there is continual improvement over time. Organisms that lack this ability to quickly adapt have a low chance of survival. Plants expend a lot of energy and time on sexual reproduction. It is that important to the survival of a population, or the species if you would rather traditional thinking.

Early plants people could not understand the function of the column in orchids and thought that pollination was a rare chance event. Christopher Sprengel observed the natural pollination of local orchid flowers by insects near Spandau in Germany in the 1770’s, but he was not a recognised scientist and his published observations got shelved. Long after his death his work was discovered and he is recognised as the first to see orchids being pollinated.

But, how are pollinators attracted? Birds see more towards the

red end of the spectrum and flowers pollinated by them tend to have warm colours and lack scent, because birds have no sense of smell and producing scents would be wasteful. Bird pollinated flowers are also fairly robust as birds may be quite destructive in the process. Hummingbirds can be tiny. They fertilise orchids in Central America. Many insects tend to see more towards the violet end of the spectrum and into the ultra-violet which we cannot detect. Flowers pollinated by them tend to be more of a pink and purple hue, but if they are other colours many have ultraviolet guiding lines that we cannot see. They are frequently fragrant, which also attracts insects. Many orchids fit into this category. There are exceptions. Moth pollinated flowers, like angraecums, are generally white and very fragrant at night to attract these nocturnal fliers. Fly pollinated orchids tend to be of a non-descript meaty colour and have a bad smell like some masdevallias. Some orchids release chemicals mimicking female insects to attract males and they come and copulate with the labellum and carry the pollen from flower to flower in the process. There are many examples such as the hammer orchids of Western Australia and the Ophrys terrestrials of Europe. Stanhopeas release chemicals which attract particular bees, but they must also fit into the cavity in the labellum and shape becomes important. When they get intoxicated they must also fit the chute that the insects slide down towards the pollinia. If appropriate insects fall into the lip of a slipper orchid, it is only a one-way path out past the pollinia.

Insects are attracted to flowers differently to us. We see the overall shape and are attracted to that. An insect’s eye is attracted by flickering. A spidery white flower will appear to flicker as a moth flies by in the night. Masdevallias have tails on the sepals to attract the required insects as the light changes in brightness when they fly past. Many orchids are spidery in shape and for the same reason.

Then along comes the human being. Just as an engineer sees a river and cannot resist building a dam or a bridge, or a property developer sees a pristine cove and must build a resort and have a subdivision, so it is with plant hybridisers. When they see flowers, they are unable to leave well enough alone. They just have to improve on nature. Orchid flowers are bred with colours we like and the shapes we like. Typically these are rounded and fleshy with clear colours. Smells are improved or removed. They set-up breeding goals, have flower shows and get judges to tell us how wonderfully well the hybridising is going. With time, standard judging scoring evolves and we select from our creations very carefully. Getting the points against the criteria is very serious business.

What do our pollinators think of all this? Nothing really, they just fly past and may not even notice the mules that have no attraction for them. The colour combinations, smells and shape mean nothing. Perhaps the most awarded orchids are the most useless in nature, with no natural survival value. They are drop dead gorgeous.

The cold weather has arrived on cue as I am writing these notes it is very much a winters day with only 11^oC. This will mean little activity around the orchid plants, you will need to watch your watering, not too much, but Do Not let them dry out particularly if they are under cover, if they are out in the open the rain should be enough, but if covered, water about once every one to two weeks, water early in the morning and try to pick a warmer, sunny day to do this if you can. I have cut out my feeding program now for the winter months until August for those plants in a bark based medium, I never feed those in horse manure, but I water them every 3 or 4 days in Winter.

Most activity will be with those plants that have spikes on them, carefully stake them, preferably not in the cold early part of the day because they will be very brittle and brake, it is hard enough to get them to spike so you don’t want to lose them now. Do not move the pots around as this will cause the spike to twist as the head of the spike will follow the moon, I have seen them do a complete back flip if turned around, even though they have been securely staked.

Be sure to shade your Pinks, Whites and particularly Greens as soon as the buds emerge from the sheath as the sun will bring out the reds in them or fade the soft colours such as green and spoil the natural colours. Keep an eye on the buds as they come out of the sheath they sometimes get stuck and need a little assistance, but be gentle.

It is very important to keep your plants off the ground particularly in winter as they hate the cold and the slaters can get in and eat the roots, sit them on some wire mesh not on boards or bricks as the insects can crawl in the pots from them.

Remember that Jack Frost is about now, so be ready to give some protection for those plants outside on those clear still nights, a sheet of black plastic or newspaper will often be enough depends on the conditions in your area.

Watch for Aphids and scale, if these present a problem it could be worth using a systemic spray to get rid of them, but remember how dangerous these sprays are and use appropriate safe guards. I use Malathion for aphids, and Malascale for scale, when necessary but a safer but possibly less effective one is Confidor.

Well the Autumn Show has come and gone and my better half took out Grand Champion with her Sophronitis coccinea ’Dragon Fire’.

That means my bragging rights have been dealt a severe blow particularly as I’m supposed to be the sophronitis grower in the family.

However the win raises two points which in a way demonstrate why orchid culture is so fascinating and unpredictable.

Firstly: sophronitis coccinea blooms mainly in the Spring with any out of season blooms usually inferior. September-October is peak season. ‘Dragon Fire’ consistently blooms in May and the quality would hold its own on any Spring show bench. Size is 65-70 mm.

Secondly: my division, grown in very similar conditions to Phyl’s is nice but barely makes 50mm across. The main cultural difference is that Phyl’s plants enjoy warmer winter conditions than mine but that shouldn’t make that much difference as sophronitis coccinea is very much a cool grower.

At the Ross get-together I was asked about winter watering. In this case it was about mini-cattleyas but the rule applies to most genera with the exception of cymbidiums grown in a shade-house.

This, to me, is the most significant problem facing orchid growers in Tasmania. There are so many factors to be considered.

What is your potting medium? Sphagnum moss obviously holds moisture far longer than a bark-gravel mix. Is your growing area bright and cosy or dark and cold. Does your humidity level drop between waterings or does it remain high. The questions are endless.

As a guide my growing area does not receive as much winter sunshine as I would like but excess humidity is not a problem because of adequate air movement through use of fans and the fact that I have an older style glass house which breathes.

I have no heat in my main growing area and the smaller section, heated with an off-peak block heater, gets down to 5 degrees centigrade so I don’t have excess drying-out of the atmosphere to worry about.

My potting mix, consisting of bark and gravel, is very free draining throughout its life so pots do not stay excessively wet.

I endeavor to water every 5 days or so but am very much guided by the elements. For example I was recently caught by a cold dark spell following Ross and the plants went for 10 days without water.

This is too long and I wouldn’t recommend it particularly if you have artificial heat. The plants got a follow-up watering three days later to ensure roots and potting mix had not dehydrated.

To summarise, you really need to analyse your own growing conditions and use the foregoing as a yard stick. When you repot in the Spring and find a pot full of nice white healthy roots you’ll know you’ve got it right.

Needless to say mounted plants are still getting dunked every 3-4 days or so.

Laelia anceps growers have possibly noticed a sticky excretion on their flowering sheaths. This is an excess of honey and should be washed off so the buds don’t stick together and not open freely.

I simply use a jug of water and with wet thumb and forefinger, gently wash it off. It may take 3 or 4 dips initially and I try to follow it up weekly.

You may prefer to use a piece of soft cloth but don’t be tempted to use warm water as it may cause the buds to open prematurely.

The latest edition of "Orchids Australia’, June 2011, has forty orchids receiving awards of which fourteen are Sarcochilus hybrids or species. This is very pleasing, but it must be acknowledged that this is by far the largest proportion in any of the six editions for the year. It does show however, that advances are racing forward with this genus. We also saw at our last meeting a plant of Sarcochilus Lara receive an award from the judges. This little gem was displayed at our autumn show and certainly stood out in the crowd.

It is interesting to look at the Sarcochilus that have received awards in the last year and see if there are patterns of particular grexes being good parents. The ones that were awarded are: Lara = Misty X Tin Yin Lara; Daybreak = Aussie Dawn X Fitzhart; Heidi = Fitzhart X hartmannii; Magic = Duno Nicky’s Twin X Zoe; Songbird = Dove X River Song; Olive Nymph = Melba X australis; Galaxy = Misty X hartmannii; Fitzhart = fitzgeraldii X hartmannii; Sarcochilus ceciliae; Sarcochilus hartmannii; Dove = Melody X hartmannii; Gunnadoo = Melba X Cherie; Cherie’s Joy = Meldoy X Cherie; Norma = Judith X River Song

The species S. hartmannii features five times and is by far the winner. So keep looking out for good forms. Misty, in particular Misty ‘Spangles’, is listed twice and is a good source of yellow and spots along with quite good shape. Three old favourites are Fitzhart, Melba and Cherie that all appear on the list twice and again keep a look out for good forms of these.

Neville Roper’s article in the October 2010 edition of the same magazine gives in addition to some mentioned, outstanding forms of Sarcochilus Burgundy on Ice, Fizzy Dove, Roberta and Yvonne. I would also add the four hybrids of Velvet, Bessie, First Light and George Colthup to the list.

What does all this mean? Sarcochilus hybrids and select species are highly respected by judges and there are many that are worth searching out. Just remember when buying plants that known clones are fine, but if you are buying a cross make sure that it is unflowered, because flowered plants may well be rejects. I know this may appear like buying a pig in a poke, but it is not. If you know which parents to look for, then your chances of raising a champion are increased.

June is a month when growth is slow, but flower spikes will be appearing. Fertilise a little with a complete liquid fertiliser, high in potassium and low in nitrogen, designed to induce flowering, although these applications should have begun some time ago. Do not overwater in this process and end up with gluggy potting mix. Sarcochilus will take it quite cold, but not a frost.

Over the next few months, most plants in tile Odontoglossum alliance will continue to grow, but not as actively as in autumn. Repotting can still be done, however if the new growth is only small and you don't provide much heat for your plants it would be better left to spring.

Rossioglossums should be rested by not watering them for a while or root loss may occur, especially if grown cold. If you are worried about them becoming too dry, then place them in a styrene box with moist sphagnum around the base of the pot. Watering of Lemboglossums such as bictoniense and apterum should be kept to a minimum, if the day is warm, you can mist the foliage of the plants.

This time of tile year is good for tidying up the plants.

Remove old sheaths by splitting them and tearing away from the base of the bulb, watch out though if you have new growths you may damage roots.

Check for plants which are not stable in the pot, it may even be necessary to tip the plant out of the pot and check for root damage or rotten roots. If the latter is the case then tidy up the roots as best you can and repot. If the roots look OK then put the plant back in the pot and stake the plant to keep it steady, or if you prefer, pack sphagnum moss around the base of the plant.

If you top dress your plants with sphagnum moss then now is a good time to remove the old moss if it is looking tatty and replace it with some fresh moss. ©

Winter has arrived, snow on Mt Wellington, cold south west winds and low temperatures are not the best conditions to encourage many of the native dendrobiums to start putting up flower spikes.

Plants that are showing signs of flowering this season are being kept cosy so that I can monitor their progress and ensure they are ready for the Spring Show. Spikes can be trained, care taken in the watering of the plants, not the flowers and any chewing and sucking insects disposed of quickly. I keep a small soft paint brush handy to brush aphids off flowers as this does not bruise or mark the flower segments.

Watering of plants in plastic pots is being done weekly, early morning to allow them to drain by nightfall. Those plants that have a warm grower in their background eg. Dendrobium Peewee are only watered occasionally as they are used to a cool dry winter.

Plants mounted on wood will require more regular watering if they are under cover as they will dry out quicker. A wintery sun shining on an enclosed growing area will raise the temperature sufficiently to dry the mount and ultimately stress the plant.

The symptoms associated with lack of water, dropping of leaves, withered canes, stress, can also be an indication of overwatering. If the growing media is continually too wet, the cell structure of the plant roots will close down and then the plant begins to show symptoms of eminent death. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO OVER-WATER.

The best thing to do is to learn and understand the requirements of the plants you grow and ensure the micro-climate you are providing is meeting their requirement As we move into the depths of winter, culture is generally a maintenance situation. Keep plants cosy, not hot, (see below for tropicools) weekly watering may be required, depending on amount of sun received and air movement. Pots do need to drain and just remain moist. Light misting of plants can be beneficial rather than heavy watering.

Protect flowers, stake racemes if necessary to aid in presentation, untangle buds, as they can get caught up with each other. Protect flowers from aphids, slugs etc.

Many tropicools are flowering now and their winters are usually dry and cool, therefore we should try to duplicate these conditions.

Now is the time to think about repotting, clean all the pots, make sure you have enough mix and labels etc. Start planning now!

Now is the time to get right into repotting, as all Plelone should be in the fully dormant phase. Prepare to repot each pan after cleaning each bulb, trimming the roots to about 15 to 20 mm before placing them in the mix. The reason for leaving the roots this long is to help hold the bulbs in place until the roots become active at or after flowering.

Pleione have a shallow root system; therefore similarly require shallow or squat pans. Fill each selected pan with the mix until about three quarters full, nestling each bulb into it spaced about 10 to 12 mm apart until the pan is full. Sounds close, but Pleione like it that way. Finally cover the bulbs with more mix to about half their depth. Don't forget, if you have a sizeable collection to put an insurance label down the side of the pan as well as the normal detailed label.

The mix should be just moist so an occasional misting or light watering is all that is required. Having the mix too wet at this stage is asking for disaster.

…that in 1960 Amy Ede from Mandai Orchid Gardens placed Arachnis Maggie Oei on a plane and transported the cut flowers around the world for 3 days to prove its lasting qualities for the flower trade.

Cym. hybrid > 90mm     2^nd. No Entry

Class 2                            1^st. Ice Maiden                                                                     S. Jackson

Cym. hybrid <= 90mm   2^nd. Dream Valley                                                                P. Willson

                                        3^rd. Lc. Varut Startrack                                                       G&G Chequer

Class 4.                           1^st. Onc. varicosum                                                                C. Nicholas

Oncidium Sp./Hyb.        2^nd. Cyrtochilum ramosissimum                                             B&L Davidson

                                        3^rd. Onc. enderianum ‘Harmony’                                          C. Nicholas

Class 5.                           1^st. Odm. Stamfordiense ‘Gin Sling’                                     B Woodward

Odontoglossum Etc.      2^nd. Wilsonara Zoe’s Fire Floricultura                                   B. Wilson

                                        3^rd. Odm. Summit ‘Lava Flow’                                              B. Woodward

Class 6.                           1^st. No Entry

Masdevallia & allied 

species

Class 7.                          1^st. Masd. Mary Staal ‘Laurie Jeanne’                                   B. Woodward

Masdevallia & allied     2^nd. Masd. Sugar Baby x Angel Crest                                     J&T Dicker

Class 8.                          1^st. Den. subclausum ‘Buana’                                                    D. Atkins

Den. other than Aust.    2^nd. Den. vexillarius                                                                  D. Atkins

                                        3^rd. Den. cuthbertsonii ‘Apple Blossom’                                  P. Nicholas

Class 9.                           1^st. Encyclia vitellina                                                                  P. Willson

Other Orchid Species    2^nd. Bakeria lindleyana var. alba                                              P. Nicholas

                                        3^rd. Bulbophyllum hirundinsis                                                     D. Atkins

Class 10.                         1^st. Vanda Colemeus x coerulea                                                M. Thiessen

                                        3^rd. Miltonia May Moir                                                               G. Allen

Class 11.                         1^st. Den. Hilda Poxon                                                                   M. Smith

Aust. Native Den.          2^nd. Den. Hilda Poxon                                                                   V. Dawes

Class 12.                         1^st. Sarco. Misty x Tin Lin Lara                                                    D. Smith

Sarcochilus                      2^nd. Sarco. Bessie                                                                           B&L Davidson

                                        3^rd. Sarco. Cream Cake ‘Yellow’                                                  B&L Davidson

Class 13.                         1^st. Pterostylis concinna                                                                  S. Jackson

Aust. Native Tuberous   2^nd. Pterostylis concinna                                                                 B. Wilson

                                         3^rd. No Entry

Class 14.                           1^st. No Entry

Other Aust. Native          2^nd. No Entry

Class 15.                           1^st. Episcea cuperata                                                                      J. Dicker

House Plants                    2^nd. Prayer Plant                                                                             J. Dicker

                                          3^rd. Adianthum                                                                                 J. Strang

Class 16.                           1^st. No Entry

Flowering Plant                                           

Class FA1.                                         "Posies for my mum"   

                                           3^rd. G. Allen

Class FA2.                                          "Dainty and Demure" 

                                          1^st. S. Jackson

                                          2^nd. B&L Davidson

                                          3^rd. J. Strang

Class FA3.                                           "Men Only" 

                                          1^st.  C. Pyne

                                          2^nd. No Entry

Editor                                        Mr M White 72 Esplanade Margate 7054 Ph. 6267 1589